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We’ve all seen those images of Kate Moss at Glastonbury. In 2005, the supermodel was photographed attending the British music festival sporting a black suit vest worn as a top, itty-bitty shorts, and a pair of muddy, below-the-knee Wellington boots by Hunter. The look became instantly symbolic of Glastonbury style—so much so that many stars like Alexa Chung and Florence Welch have copied Moss and rocked the rain boot with leather pants or velvet blazers. But the Wellington boot’s unexpected rise to becoming a cool festival-girl staple certainly didn’t happen overnight. The Wellington boot’s origin story dates as far back as the 1790s. It’s a derivative of the Hessian boot, a knee-high leather shoe with a stacked heel and front tassel worn by officers in the British army. One of the first public figures to begin wearing them was Arthur Wellesley, First Duke of Wellington, who was a leading military and political figure in Britain at the time. In the early 19th century, however, Wellesley tasked his shoemaker, George Hoby, of St. James’s Street in London, to modify the shoe in a supple leather treated with wax, so that it could fit more closely around the leg. This silhouette, sans tassel, was deemed “the Wellington boot”—and it remained a must-have well into the early 1850s.

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